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Monday 12 December 2016

How to Spot Fake Reviews on Amazon

If you want to avoid getting scammed on Amazon and other sites, you might think the reviews section is your best friend. After all, if there’s a problem with the product other customers would point it out.

But that’s not always true, because lots of reviews are fake. Scummy companies have been known to hire fake reviewers to praise products and boost sales, meaning you never know for certain that a review can be trusted.

Having said that, there are tools that help spot such nonsense, and you can learn to recognise fake reviews with time.

Scan Amazon Links For Fake Reviews Automatically

If you’re browsing Amazon or Yelp, and suspect the reviews you’re seeing are fake, there’s a quick way to support your suspicion: FakeSpot. This site analyses the comments and works out whether the reviews are likely to be fake.

To get started, copy the URL form any Amazon page you think has suspicious review. The site will scan the reviews and give you an adjusted rating, with reviews that are likely fake removed.

FakeSpot scans the language used in every review, and also checks the profile of every reviewer, then uses a number of factors to decide whether a given review is likely to be fake or not.

For example, excessively positive language is considered a red flag. While many people are willing to compliment a good product in a review, they rarely pile on positive adjectives the way fake reviewers will. Similarly, if reviewers seem to only ever post positive reviews, and to post reviews of the same company’s products, there’s a good chance the reviews are fake. It’s also considered suspicious for a bunch of positive reviews to show up on the same day.

None of these rules are hard and fast. Sometimes real people will do these things, and sometimes fake reviewers won’t. But FakeSpot’s statistical analysis tries to spot trends and give you an idea of how likely the reviews below a given product are fake. If this site doesn’t suspect anything is wrong with the reviews, there’s a good chance you’ve got nothing to worry about.

How to Spot Fakes Yourself

What if you’re seeing fake reviews, or comments, on sites other than Amazon or Yelp? Or just don’t want to depend on a website? Then, my friend, you need to develop an internal BS detector.

The things that FakeSpot takes into account—excessively positive language, multiple reviews published on the same day—are great initial things to look at. Then you need to consider a few more things.

  • Check the dates on the reviews. Did a bunch of positive reviews flood the product seemingly at once? If so, you’re probably looking at fake comments.

  • Consider the language choices. Fake reviewers frequently aren’t native English speakers. For this reason, you might notice some weird language choices in fake reviews. For example: a supposedly US-based reviewer might refer to something as costing “1300 USD,” even though an actual American would never specify “USD” while writing a review.

  • Click the reviewer’s profile. You can typically do this by clicking the user’s name. Does a given review seem to only ever leave positive reviews, with glowing language? Do they tend to focus on products from little-known companies? That’s very suspicious, and might be a sign that you’re looking at a fake reviewer.

  • Do some Googling. If the site you’re looking at provides a first and last name for a reviewer, go ahead and look the person up. Do the results match with an actual human person, with a Facebook or Twitter account? If so, do they talk to other humans, or just kinda exist?

  • Check the avatar. Many fake reviewers pull photos from blogs or other people’s social media profiles to appear like an actual person. Run a reverse image search to find the original source of the image. Frequently you’ll find out you’re looking at a stock photo, a photo grabbed from someone else’s blog, or even a clip from a movie.

These aren’t the only ways to spot a fake, of course, and fake reviewers are going to become more sophisticated over time. Just approach reviews with a healthy sense of scepticism, instead of assuming everything is coming from a well-intentioned consumer like yourself.

Do you have any online security questions? Get in touch and we'll do our best to help 🍀 

Friday 2 December 2016

Six Things You Should Do After Plugging In Your New Router

Most people don’t replace their routers that often, and there are so many important settings, it’s easy to overlook a few and forget how your old one was set up. Here are the first five things you need to do right after powering up your new router.

A few minutes of tweaking and configuration right after unboxing your new router can save you headaches down the road. A Wi-Fi router, left improperly configured and with poor security, can leave your network unstable and vulnerable to malicious users. This guide should help you establish a solid baseline level of security.

Although we’ve included screenshots showing different settings in different router interfaces, every router is different—please refer to the documentation for your specific router to locate all the settings we refer to throughout this tutorial.

Update the Firmware

Your router’s firmware is a set of operating instructions and tools stored on its memory chip that controls everything from the Wi-Fi radios to the firewall.

Although firmware updates are generally infrequent, and router firmware is designed to be stable, there are two reasons to check for updates immediately after getting a new router. First, you don’t know how long your router was sitting on the shelf, and a new update may have been (and most likely was) released.

Second, although not as common as problems on consumer operating systems like Windows, there are exploits and vulnerabilities that crop up in router firmware, so it’s always good to have the latest (and most secure) firmware available. It also means you have access to the most up-to-date features of the router.

Change the Default Login Password

Just about every router ships with a default username and password you use to manage the router. These defaults aren’t even well kept secrets—a simple Google search will tell you the username and password for just about any router out there. Usually they’re something ridiculously simple, like “admin/admin”.

So, if you don’t want it to be stupid easy for passers-by to break into your network, you should change your administrator password…before someone changes it for you.

Change the Wi-Fi Network Name (SSID)

Your Wi-Fi’s network name, or SSID, can reveal a lot about the router. For example, it might be called “Linksys”, which lets outsiders know the manufacturer of your router—making it easier for them to fetch the default login, or check for vulnerabilities on that model.

Change the SSID to something different from the default, but without any identifying information in it. This means no SSIDs like “Flat2b” or “12HighStreet”. Something easy to remember but unspecific to you is ideal—like “Cookie Monster” or “Spaceman”. Any combination of words will do,. really.

Set a Secure Wi-Fi Password with Quality Encryption

For years, router manufacturers shipped routers with poorly configured Wi-Fi and/or default passwords enabled. Now, they’re finally starting to ship routers with the highest level of Wi-Fi encryption enabled and a randomised password set (so even if new users don’t know what they’re doing or fail to look up a list like this one, they’re still protected).

Not every manufacturer has individualised setups for each router they ship, however, which means it’s your responsibility to make sure your router has properly configured Wi-Fi with a secure password and the best encryption.

When you go to change your Wi-Fi network’s password, you’ll typically have options available like WEP, WPA, and WPA2. Select WPA2 (or, to future proof this advice, whatever better encryption comes along). We recommend using WPA2. You can read about Wi-Fi encryption and why it matters here, but the short of it is that anything below WPA2 is easier to crack. WEP is so trivial to crack a child with the right (and widely available) tool could do it.

As far as passwords are concerned, when you’re using strong encryption like WPA2 that supports up to 63 characters, it’s far better to use a passphrase than a password. Forget simple passwords like thedog20, blackcat, or any of the trivial passwords that Wi-Fi standards used to restrict us to. Passphrases are easier to remember and are harder to crack. Instead of “thedog20”, use “My Dog Is Twenty Years Old”.

While we’re on the topic of securing your Wi-Fi: if you have a newer router, chances are you have a guest network. If you choose to enable it, the same rules apply for selecting good encryption and a strong password. We also recommend you check out our dedicated article about securing guest networks and how they may not be as secure as you think.

Disable Remote Access

If you need remote access for some reason, it’s a pretty handy feature. For 99.9% of home users, however, there’s very little reason they would need to remotely administer their router from afar, and leaving remote access on simply opens up a point of vulnerability that hackers can take advantage of. Since the router not only functions as the network management brain of your home network but also the firewall, once a malicious user has gained remote control, they can open the firewall and gain complete access to your home network.

Again, like better Wi-Fi security, manufacturers are finally taking default security seriously, so you might be pleasantly surprised to find that the remote access/management features are disabled. Still, trust but verify. Look in the advanced settings of your router and confirm that any remote access tools are turned off.

Disable WPS and UPnP

Finally—compared to the previous examples of security measures you should take—we have a more arcane one: disabling Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) and (Universal Plug and Play) UPnP. While both services are intended to make our lives easier, they both have various security flaws and exploits. WPS allows you to press a button on your router or use a PIN to pair your new devices to your router (instead of manually searching for the Wi-Fi network name and entering the password) but there are flaws in WPS that aren’t worth the convenience. If your router supports disabling WPS, it should be easily found in your router’s menus.

In addition to disabling WPS, you should also disable UPnP. The UPnP system is, in fairness, way more useful than the WPS system—it automates the process of opening ports in your firewall for applications like Skype and Plex media server—but like WPS it has security flaws that can allow malicious parties access to your router. You should check through settings on your router to disable it and then brush up on how to manually forward ports on your router so, should you run into any issues like your Plex server’s remote access isn’t working right with UPnP turned off, you can fix it right away.

By simply updating your firmware, changing default logins for the router and Wi-Fi access, and locking down remote access, your 10 minutes of effort ensure that your router is now radically more secure than when it came out of the box.

Do you have any networking or Wi-Fi questions? Get in touch and we'll do our best to help 🍀 

Wednesday 12 October 2016

How to Turn On Encryption In Facebook Messenger

Last Spring WhatsApp pushed out code adding a new layer of security to a billion users’ apps, creating the largest end-to-end encrypted messaging network in history. Now WhatsApp’s parent company Facebook has finally given people who use its other massively popular chat app the chance to catch up.
A Facebook spokesperson says the company just finished rolling out “Secret Conversations” to all 900 million Facebook Messenger users in the past few weeks. The opt-in feature allows users to encrypt their messages so that no one can read them except the two people on either end of a conversation—not even Facebook or law enforcement or intelligence agencies. “Your messages are already secure, but Secret Conversations are encrypted from one device to another,” states a description in the app when users initiate their first encrypted conversation.

If you want to start a new encrypted conversation:
1. Tap the new conversation icon at the top right.
2. Tap “Secret” in the top right.
3. Choose your recipient and begin messaging.

If you want to turn an ongoing conversation into an encrypted Secret Conversation:
1. Open the message thread.
2. Tap their name at the top of your screen.
3. Tap “Secret Conversation” to switch it over.

If you don’t see those options, it could mean the recipient doesn’t have the current version of Facebook Messenger. They’ll need to update their app for Secret Conversations to work. Also, Secret Conversations don’t allow the sending of GIFs and videos, but you can still share picture and use stickers. And it’s important to note that you can only access your Secret Conversations from the device it was enabled on. So if you start an encrypted conversation on your phone, that’s the only place you can send and receive encrypted messages for that particular conversation.

Thursday 18 August 2016

11 apps and gadgets to turn your phone into something else

Your mobile is more versatile than you think

Smartphones are versatile bits of kit right out of the box but with a well-chosen accessory or app you can do even more with the gadget in your pocket - from gazing at the stars to acting as a backup to your Kindle e-reader, you can add a lot of extra strings to its bow.

We've picked out 11 of our favourite such uses in the list below, so if you're done exploring all the usual tasks your phone can cover - from Snapchat to video calls- then give these a try. You might be surprised at what your phone can do with the right tools installed.

1. Radar gun

By using a reference measurement taken through your iPhone's camera, SpeedClock for iOS can turn your Apple handset into a makeshift radar gun and measure motion speed.
You get high-speed video recording, synchronised timing gates (for measuring speed between two points) and more. Unfortunately there's no decent option on Android yet.

2. Game Boy

Behold the Smartboy, a case for your Android phone that turns it into one of the most iconic handheld gaming devices of all time (either a Game Boy or a Game Boy Colour).
However, at the moment the case is only on sale to developers (for $59.99 or about £45) as makers Hyperkin Lab look to get the device software polished and ready for a full release.

3. Telescope

You can't actually turn your tiny phone camera into a bona fide telescope, but there are a bunch of very cool apps that let you point your handset at the stars and get real-time info.
SkySafari for Android and iOS is one of the most comprehensive apps for the job we've seen. Upgrade to the Pro or Plus versions and you can control your home telescope too.

4. VR headset

Join the VR revolution with your phone. The Gear VR is perhaps the best-known virtual reality accessory, though you need a recent Samsung Galaxy handset to be able to use it.
It's not the only option: Google Cardboard headsets work with Android and iOS devices and other low-cost devices worth a look include the Homido and the Zeiss VR One.

5. Dash cam

You might already use your phone as a sat nav but it works pretty well as a dash cam too if you get the right app installed (and they can be very handy for your next insurance claim).
CamOnRoad for iOS and Android is one of the best picks although there are alternatives for both platforms. You can sign up for a premium account to get access to more features.

6. Spirit level

This is actually a built-in feature on iOS, though it's not all that easy to find: open up the Compass app, swipe to the left and there's your spirit level, ready for your next DIY project.
On Android (or indeed iOS) you can simply Google "spirit level" on the web and a spirit level widget appears, letting you know when your handset is perfectly level on a surface.

7. Microscope

The Micro Phone Lens was born on Kickstarter and can be yours for $49.99 (about £40) and above, turning almost any smartphone or tablet into a more precise scientific instrument.
You get a 150x level of zoom so if you've always wanted to run your own experiments and studies at home this is your chance. You get some specimen slides included with the kit.

8. Heart rate monitor

You probably already know your phone can count your steps if you've left yourfitness tracker at home, but you can turn your mobile into a fairly decent heart rate monitor too.
Instant Heart Rate for Android and iOS is a very good app for this, using your phone's camera to measure blood circulation and adding an extra variable to your health tracking.

9. Scanner

No need to go out and buy a bulky flatbed scanner, because your phone can do the same job for you, using its rear camera and a suitable app - again there are several to pick from.
CamScanner for Android and iOS is a very good option that works painlessly on both the major phone platforms, while Scanbot for iOS only is packed with features too.

10. E-reader

Your phone's bright screen may not be as easy on the eyes as an e-ink display, but you can still turn it into a handy e-reader with the help of the free Kindle app for Android and iOS.
You don't need to own a real, physical Kindle to read and buy books from Amazon, but if you do then your reading progress is synced across multiple devices and indeed the web.

11. Security camera

This probably suits an older smartphone or camera unless you want to leave your current mobile sitting at home all day, but it's another alternative use that's easy to set up.
Manything for Android and iOS is the most impressive and complete option we've seen but there are others, letting you view a live feed of your house from wherever you are.

Monday 8 August 2016

Android security bug may be in 900 million phones

Android smartphone
Image captionThe flaws affect devices containing Qualcomm chips
The BBC have reported that serious security flaws found in software used on tens of millions of Android devices could give attackers complete access to a phone's data have been.
The bugs were uncovered by Checkpoint researchers looking at software running on chipsets made by US firm Qualcomm.
Qualcomm processors are found in about 900 million Android phones, the company said.
However, there is no evidence of the vulnerabilities currently being used in attacks by cyberthieves.
"I'm pretty sure you will see these vulnerabilities being used in the next three to four months," said Michael Shaulov, head of mobility product management at Checkpoint.
"It's always a race as to who finds the bug first, whether it's the good guys or the bad."
Affected devices included:
  • BlackBerry Priv
  • Blackphone 1 and Blackphone 2
  • Google Nexus 5X, Nexus 6 and Nexus 6P
  • HTC One, HTC M9 and HTC 10
  • LG G4, LG G5, and LG V10
  • New Moto X by Motorola
  • OnePlus One, OnePlus 2 and OnePlus 3
  • US versions of the Samsung Galaxy S7 and Samsung S7 Edge
  • Sony Xperia Z Ultra
Mr Shaulov said six months of work to reverse engineer Qualcomm's code revealed the problems.
The flaws were found in software that handles graphics and in code that controls communication between different processes running inside a phone.
Exploiting the bugs would allow an attacker to gradually be able to take more control over a device and gain access to its data.
Android sculptureImage copyrightAP
Image captionThe flaws could be used to make booby-trapped apps that steadily gain access to a phone's data
Checkpoint handed information about the bugs and proof of concept code to Qualcomm earlier this year.
In response, Qualcomm is believed to have created patches for the bugs and started to use the fixed versions in its factories.
It has also distributed the patches to phone makers and operators. However, it is not clear how many of those companies have issued updates to customers' phones.
Checkpoint has created a free app called QuadRooter Scanner that can be used to check if a phone is vulnerable to any of the bugs, by looking to see if the patches for them have been downloaded and installed.
In addition, Mr Shaulov said Android owners should only download apps from the official Google Play store to avoid falling victim to malicious programs.
"People should call whoever sold them their phone, their operator or the manufacturer, and beg them for the patches," said Mr Shaulov.
Qualcomm has yet to respond to a request for comment.

Wednesday 3 August 2016

How to Take Better Pictures with Your Phone’s Camera

They say the best camera is the one you have with you, and most smartphone cameras can now easily replace a point-and-shoot. For users who have experience taking pictures, the move from a “real” camera to a smartphone can be an easy one, but for users with no photography experience, it can be a real challenge to get a decent looking shot from your phone. Fortunately, smartphone cameras are often more intuitive than more traditional cameras, and landing the best possible shot just take a few considerations.
We'll be using various Android phones for this tutorial, but you should easily be able to apply the methods used here on any smartphone—pay attention to the fundamentals at play here, not necessarily the interface being used.

Make Sure the Lens Is Clean

This really should go without saying, but you’d be surprised how many people forget to check the lens for smudges before they try to snap a pic. These are still phones, after all, so they’re subjected to ample amounts of fingerprints and dirt from being tossed in pockets and other sorts of abuse–while cameras are usually not. So yeah, make sure the lens is clean and smudge-free before you whip that phone out and start snapping pictures.
Now that you’re ready to channel your inner photographer, let’s talk about actually using that camera.

Lighting Is Everything

Lighting is absolutely crucial in getting a good picture–and doubly so on smartphones, which don’t often do as well in low light as standalone cameras. Bad lighting on a normal camera will produce a sub-par photo, but bad lighting on a smartphone camera can produce absolute garbage.
So let’s talk basics. You’ve seen professional photo shoots where they have an absolutely ridiculous amount of lights behind the photographer, right? There’s a good reason for that: lighting is everything when it comes to detail. Proper lighting can do everything from put the focal point exactly where you want it to make skin look baby smooth.
So, where should you stand? Where should the subject be? Think of a photo studio: the lights are in the back, shining on the subject, and the photographer is somewhere in the middle. The same idea applies to taking simple smartphone pictures: avoid putting the light source to the subject’s back—move around until the light source is behind you, highlighting the subject. Here’s a good example of poor lighting versus optimal lighting:
IMG_20160621_120340 IMG_20160621_120325
Here are a few quick tips to keep in mind when shooting with your smartphone:
  • Avoid direct sunlight. This will wash out the entire picture. Overcast days are great for taking pictures, but if it’s sunny out, try to find some shade. That should provide the prefect lighting situation.
  • When indoors, shoot near a window. Remember, don’t your put your subject’s back to the window, but rather have them/it face the window. Be aware of where the sun is, as lighting inside of building will change throughout the day.
  • Avoid the flash in a dark room. If you can, try not to use the flash for taking close-up (or macro) shots. This can wash subjects out while making the background dark. The flash can be great for grabbing a quick, broad shot in a dark environment, but for any sort of “portrait” photography, it’s a no-go. See below for an example of how harsh the flash can be in a dark room.
Again, move around! Play with it. The more different pictures you take, the better shot you have of one looking decent. It may take a bit to figure out this whole “lighting” thing, but once you do it’ll start to come much more naturally. There is, however, one more piece to the puzzle that goes hand-in-hand with lighting.

Always Check the Exposure and Focus

Oh, snap—we just used a photography word. Exposure? What is that?! To put it in the simplest of terms, exposure is the amount of light that reaches the camera’s sensor. To make that easier to understand, grab your phone and open the camera. Now, find a scene with both light and dark objects. Tap the black—see how the entire frame lights up? Now tap the light object—everything should get darker. This is essentially your phone doing an automatic exposure adjustment. Cool, right? Modern phone cameras make exposure so simple, especially compared to more advanced cameras that don’t have touch screens. Here’s a look at the difference exposure can make:
IMG_20160621_120434 IMG_20160621_120429
But that’s the other half of good lighting. Sometimes, the phone will automatically select a sort of “central” exposure point after seeing the entire frame (you can usually watch this happen—as you move the phone, the lighting will change on-screen), but if you want more control over the lighting, just tap around a little bit to get the perfect exposure. You generally don’t want to use the extremes here, so avoid tapping on super-dark or super-light objects. Like everything else, play with it and see what looks best.
Along those same lines, you can change the focal point of the photograph by just tapping it. A shallow “Depth of Field”—a shot where one section of the image is in perfect focus and the rest is blurry—is often sought after, but while it’s not something that’s very dramatic on most smartphones, it’s still important. See the images below–the left one shows the background in focus, while the right one shows our subject in focus.
The main thing to be aware of when adjusting the focal point is that it will also adjust the exposure, so you may have to play with it just a little bit to get both exposure and depth of field adjusted correctly.
20160621_120045_009 20160621_120111
Considering the limited tweaks that can be made to most smartphones, keep in mind that a shallow depth of field is hard, if not impossible, to get on larger subjects, like people. If you’re shooting smaller objects, then a shallow depth of field is a bit easier to achieve. Just be aware of the hardware limitations you’ll have to overcome—this is a smartphone after all, not a Digital SLR.

Know When to Use HDR

HDR, or “High Dynamic Range,” is a great way to get better, more accurate pictures in tough situations. Essentially, this mode takes three pictures with varying exposures, then combines them into one single image—that’s why it takes a little longer to shoot an HDR shot on your phone. This achieves a better overall balance by enhancing the ration of light to dark in the scene.
Sounds good, right? It is! But there are times when it’s a good idea to use HDR, and there are times when it’s best to leave it off. Here’s a quick and dirty list to make it a little easier.
It’s good to use HDR when shooting:
  • Landscapes: HDR can make the best of a landscape scene. It will help the picture look more like what your eyes see versus what the camera sees.
  • Portraits in bright light: We’ve already established that pictures in sunlight are bad, but if you can’t avoid it, HDR can help balance it out and remove some of the harshness.
  • When backlighting is unavoidable: If you absolutely can’t help but have your subjects back to the light source, HDR can help balance out the contrast—in other words, the subjects won’t be as dark.
It’s usually bad to use HDR when shooting:
  • Action scenes: Since HDR requires three shots in a row, movement is a no-no. Your subjects will look very blurry.
  • High-contrast situations: Sometimes you want a high level of contrast for a dramatic effect. HDR will take that away.
  • Vivid colors: This is one that many people abuse—HDR does a good job of making many shots more vivid, but using it on already-vivid shots can wash them out, thus taking away the desired effect.
A lot of phones have an automatic HDR mode that is okay at knowing when to activate itself, but auto mode can’t get it right every time–so keep these bullet points in mind as you shoot, and you can turn HDR on or off when you know it’s appropriate.

Don’t Zoom In, Ever

Digital SLR cameras have what’s called “optical zoom,” which means the lens itself actually moves forward to zoom in. On smartphones, this isn’t possible, so they use “digital zoom”—which basically means the software zooms and crops the shot.
20160714_111215 20160714_111245
As a result, this dramatically affects the picture quality. Digitally zoomed images often become pixelated, and the more you zoom, the worse it gets. To put it into perspective, thing about taking an image that you already have saved on your computer, then resizing it to make it larger. This is essentially what digital zoom does. In some cases the software will attempt to clear up any artifacting that happens, but it’s still going to exist.
The solution? Move closer. I realise that this isn’t always ideal, but it’s always going to be the best answer. Remember, digital zoom essentially crops your photos–which, if you must do, you can always do later on with your phone’s editing tools. It still won’t look good, but at least you’ll have a choice–if you shoot with digital zoom, you can’t get that extra resolution back.
Take a look at the above pictures for reference: the left one is zoomed, the second is just a closer shot. Huge difference, right?

Don’t Forget About More Advanced Features

Screenshot_20160621-121302 Screenshot_20160621-121309
Many smartphone camera apps also offer access to advanced features, like aperture, ISO, white balance, and more. This isn’t something that most people will want—or even need—to access, but it’s worth keeping in mind that they’re there. Of course, that depends on the phone, the app, and more, so poke around in the settings and see what you can find. These settings can be a little hard to take in at first, so further research may be required to fully understand what they all do. For the majority of users, however, this section can be left alone.

A Few Other Things to Keep in Mind

And, of course, none of this is meant to exclude the basics of good photography, including:
  • Environment: Always be aware of your surroundings. That can quickly ruin an otherwise excellent shot.
  • Background: This goes hand-in-hand with the last point. Try to keep the background in contrast to the foreground—a child wearing a green shirt on a background of bushes or trees doesn’t make much sense, for example.
  • Framing: This is crucial! You don’t have to center the picture, but make sure to frame it as best you can—properly framing a photo will make the subject pop, which is exactly what you’re going for. 
The rules for smartphones aren’t that different than the rules for cameras–there are just some rules that become more important. Take care with your photos and you can get some great looking shots with a phone.

Unhappy with Your Camera? Try a Different App!

That’s really the beauty of shooting with your smartphone: if you don’t like the interface your manufacturer gives you, you can simply install something else and give it a shot. A quick search of your preferred app store will likely show dozens of options for cameras—some simple, some full featured. Some are effects-based, while others offer built-in editors. To get you started, you could check out Camera+ for iOS or Camera FV-5 for Android.
I personally find that most manufacturers do a pretty good job of providing the best camera software for their respective phones, but there’s always room for exploration.

Taking good pictures with a smartphone takes practice, but it’s definitely not out of the question to be able to grab high-quality shots with your handset. With a little bit of patience and practice, you’ll be grabbing those once-in-a-lifetime shots with your phone like a pro. Oh, and just for reference, every image in this post was taken with a smartphone. Boom.

Article originally published on How-To Geek.